Monday, 29 April 2013

Alterations: Stiffening the cups

Most of you have probably heard by now that I have some problems with the much loved Ewa Michalak bras. 

My main problem is that they are too shallow at the bottom, and thus collapse - My inability to fit in the bottom of the cup can't really be helped much, but I've experimented with preventing the bra from collapsing, by making the lightly padded cup a bit more stiff.

My first attemps have been pretty half-arsed, by using the plastic from Q-tips, to sew a small bit of boning in. This was obviously not a good solution, and I was thus on the look-out for something better.

I then stumbled across the plastic-sheets that you can roll up and stick in your long boots:

It was thin and sturdy, so it seemed bendable and supportive enough to do the job.

My first go was to try and make an entire plastic pad - I used a pad from a PL bra as a template, and cut out a piece, and then made holes to stitch through. The cutting was easy enough, but making the holes were a tough job. I made these with nails that I hammered through, but it was tedious work to get them all done, and even then they were quite small:

I quickly stitched it on a pad, and stuck it in a PL bra to see how it worked - well, not well!

As you can see, the profile is awful - the pad is completely stiff, and stick out.

Furthermore, it doesn't follow the bottom of the cup, and thus actually makes the fold more extreme. Not what I wanted.

So, my next attemp was cutting a little "wave" - I figured this would follow the curve much better, direct the breast towards the middle, and make a smoother transition from boned area to soft area. I cut the wave shape first, and then adjusted the bottom to fit the curve of the wire.

(sorry, forgot to take pictures of the process!) This time, I cut the holes with a scissor, which was much easier, and the holes were about the same size as with the nails anyway - Experience told me that the smaller the holes was, the more difficult it was to make small neat stitches!

I has just recieved an S and a PL bra, so I would test this out on both types:

On the S bra, I sew them on the inside - This was tricky work! I tested where my dreaded fold was likely to form, and then safty-pinned it in place. I made sure to try get it under the seam of the wire, to prevent potential pinching.

Here's how it ended up looking:

For most of the stitches, I could make sure not to stitch through the outer-most layer, keeping it smooth on the outside. This was a little difficult at the bottom of cups, as my hands didn't have much room to work in, making neat work more difficult. But it's not really enough to show through anyway:

So here it is on!

I would saya it's definitely a succes - more uplifted than anything! And no signs of anything going on in the cup. And it's surprisingly comfy too - I can't feel it at all! And added bonus, I usually also feel like the gore doesn't really tack on me, but this seems to tip the whole bra upwards a bit, forcing the gore a bit closer to my chest. All around good points for this!

Next up, I tried it on a Pl - The difference here being that they have pockets on the inside for pads. I therefor had to sew on the outside. 

This was much much easier, because it wasn't the nitty-gritty work in the cup, but the results aren't as good either. The edges would not completely follow the cup, and this could stick out a bit, which does show through clothing:

So, I'd deem this one succes (that I will definitely repeat!) and one not so much (though not unbearable for me). I don't know if this will inspire others to make alterations like that, but there you have it, this is how I intend to make EM's work a bit better for me!

Thursday, 18 April 2013

Still figuring out Pepperberry!

I feel like I've done a lot of positive reviews of Pepperberry, but I have also ordered some items recently that weren't all that..

The Cross Front Jersey Dress seemed like just my type - green (my favorite!), slightly more casual and appeared to be one to enhance curves, which I prefer!
Cross Front Jersey Dress
I got it in 18SC, which seems to be my go-to-size with Pepperberry, though I'd far prefer 16SDC.
And the results are in:

There are some clear signs of too little boob-space, since as you can see, the waist band rides up way too far in the front. I think this could have been fixed if just the band had been a lot tighter, since I didn't get this at all with the 16SDC, which suppoebly has about the same boob-space, but a tighter body.

Speaking of the waist band - I found it weird and bulky, which certainly doesn't help with showing off the waist, besides the fact that it's too high.

Another feature on this dress that makes me appear less curvy is the seams on the bust - the pleats (which I guess are to make more boob space) are in princes seams, about a third onto the boob, thus in my opinion, makes a weird placement - it either makes it look like your boobs are "too wide", like there weren't supposed to start further out than the seam. OR makes it look like they really do start more in the middle of your chest, thus making your boob-to-chest-ration appear smaller. Which I'm not a real fan of.

The bottom half (besides it starting slightly too high) is rather good in front - even though I have a considerable lower tummy, the pleats beautifully conceals this, without being baggy, and the length is also my prefered length. The back however, is not as good IMO. I do have a very significant bottom, but I do wish it had a bit of extra space back there - maybe with just 2 pleats? And while we are down there, I wish the bottom of the dress was  bit narrower, making the silhouette a bit more 8 shaped.

So, overall, I wasn't exactly overwhelmed by this dress. My mom however, loved it on me, but she genereally prefer much straighter figures than I do (something that has caused many clothing disagreements between us!).

All in all, I think I'll stick to Pepperberry's more simple tops, with the classic A-line skirts - the safe way to go! 

Friday, 5 April 2013

Pepperberry continues to impress me!

My ”problem” with a lot of the amazing clothes I see, is that it’s all very fancy: I have a casual-verging-on-sloppy style, so though I drool (and quite often buy it too!) over the beautiful dresses and sophisticated sets I see, I quite rarely get to wear it. 

So I was very pleased with the look of the Stripe Tie Back Top fromPepperberry:

I had seen a review by BrasIHateAndLove of the “Button Trim Jersey Top” which I highly suspect is the same top just without stripes, especially because it is labeled as being based on a customers favorite!

So, I popped it in my basket in the Heather/Grey option, and hoped for the best!

Well, I was quite pleased:

The fabric is very soft, so it’s so comfy to wear! Do you remember what I said about that whenever I think “this fabric is amazing!” it always turns out to be viscose? Yeah, this is viscose (with 5% elastane)
It’s very thick and heavy, which works quite well: You don’t have to tighten the back that much to get some good definition in the front, because the tie is so heavy that it pulls in just by the weight of the knot. Which is good news for me, as I hate tight ties on my back! So overall, it’s super casual, no fuss sort of top.

It is quite cleavage-y though, I can only wear it with proper plunges, not even an Ewa Michalak S-bra will do, even though that is almost a plunge! So that sort of limits it a bit for me – especially because it is so thick, it’s not very inviting to have an extra layer under.

In BIHAL’s review, she noted that it was generous in the size, which I’ll agree with – all over. So, if you normally fit your Pepperberry size perfectly, I’d advice you to size down. Since I have a little trouble fitting my hips and bust in 18SC’s as it is, I didn’t want to chance it with a 16SC, and I think that’s wise, going by the amount of cleavage on display. I may consider getting one of those Perfect Cami’s though, and then I could probably go for the 16SC.

BIHAL noted that it was quite long, which was a plus for her – even though this is labled as being 1cm longer (which is an odd small difference), it wasn’t nearly as long on me. I do probably have a quite long torso/my belly and bum just sit really really low, but I could definitely not wear this with just leggings- my bum would be hanging out! But I quite love this length to be honest, I usually curse at tops that are just that bit too short for me, so this made it extra nice and hassle-free for me!

Overall, this is now one of my favorite tops in my closet (and hopefully I’ll get more wear out if it once I get my new EM plunge!) Then I will probably order the lighter version as well!

And while on the subject of thing I want to order next… Have you seen Pepperberry’s new stuff?
This could work for me:
Ponti Skater Dress
Oh, this is good:

Colour Block Full Skirt Dress
Love it!
Stripe Hem Dress
Need this!
Boucle Jacket
Nautical Spot Dress
Floral Prom Dress
Yes please!
Floral Button Sun Dress
It's like someones been peeking at my wish-list!
Paint Print Dress
This dress is so beautiful I could cry!
Crochet Detail Dress
Damn it, Pepperberry, why do you make your most beautiful things right now when I’m extra tight on money? (long story short, I’m on my last month of current income, and I had reeeeally hoped my job hunt would have had results by now….)